Thursday, October 28, 2010

How to retouch and edit nice landscape photos

http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/how-to-retouch-and-edit-landscape-photos/


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Before Changes

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After Changes

This tutorial is to help you learn how to adjust landscape photos to bring out the detail of the background and horizon. Much of the time a digital camera will bring out the colors more in the foreground, but with this tutorial you can learn how to emphasize the whole scene. Ok, once you have your picture open in photoshop:

1. First of all, create a New Brightness/Contrast Adjustment Layer (Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Brightness/Contrast). Adjust the Brightness and Contrast until the Background looks good, don’t worry about the Foreground. For this photo I set the Brightness to 19 and the Contrast to 14.

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2. Then Select the Gradient Tool (G) and choose the kind called the Reflected Gradient. Then with the Adjustment Layer mask selected, drag the gradient tool from the top of the photo to a little past halfway in the photo.

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3. Then for this photo, I repeated steps one and two but used the Gradient to only include the clouds and sky to bring out more detail in the sky.

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4. Then Create a New Layer (Layer>New>Layer) and when the New Layer Dialog box comes up Choose Overlay from the Mode drop menu, and Then check the box that says, “Fill with Overlay-neutral color (50% gray)”

5. Then Choose and big soft paintbrush and To Brighten Areas: with the color white carefully stroke your paintbrush on the Overlay layer that you created. And To Darken Areas: with the colorblack carefully stroke your paintbrush on the Overlay layer that you created. For more Instruction on Steps 4 and 5 please refer to our tutorial on “Professional Brightening Techniques.”

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With this technique you can make any regular landscape photo look very professional. And each step is completely customizable to work with different photos. For different photos, the process and amount of adjustment won’t be exactly the same.

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Wednesday, October 27, 2010

How to Enchance the Sky in A Picture Using Photoshop

Taken from : http://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-editing/photoshop-sky/

Written By Steve Patterson

In this Adobe Photoshop tutorial, we're going to look at how to enhance the sky in a photo, bringing out details in the clouds, improving the contrast and increasing color saturation, and we can do all these things at once using a very simple technique.

Often times when taking pictures outdoors, the camera exposes the shot based on the brightness of the subject you're focusing on, which is fine except that it tends to overexpose the sky, washing away that rich, deep blue along with most of the details in the clouds. The usual way of avoiding this problem is by using a neutral density filter, which is a fancy name for what is essentially a black-to-transparent gradient attached to the lens of your camera, fading from black at the top down to transparent at the bottom. Since the top portion of the filter is darker than the bottom portion, less light is able to enter the top portion of the lens, protecting the sky from overexposure.

If you don't happen to own a neutral density filter or forgot to bring it with you, no worries. Photoshop makes it easy to achieve the same results with very little effort. In fact, even though the general rule is to get things right as much as possible in front of the camera rather than relying on Photoshop to save the day, this is one time when I find it easier to do the work in Photoshop since it gives us a lot more control over the end result.

I was out driving around the countryside one morning when I came across a couple of horses proudly standing by the road enjoying a delicious helping of grass. Since I always bring my camera along everywhere I go (I find it makes it easier to take pictures), I couldn't resist pulling the car over and snapping a few photos. Here's one of them:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image
Photoshop Tutorials: The original image.

Overall, it's not a bad photo, and unlike several people I know who run for cover at the very mention of having their picture taken, these two horses didn't seem to mind at all. It might have been a better photo if the wire fence wasn't in the way, but I could always get rid of it if I really wanted to using the Clone Stamp tool. The problem I'm concerned about here is the sky. It's looking quite dull and could definitely use some help. There's a lot of detail in the clouds that we're not seeing, and the light blue needs to be deeper, more saturated.

Here's what the sky will look like when we're done:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image
Photoshop Tutorials: The final "enhanced sky" result.

Let's see how to go about enhancing the sky.

One thing I should point out here before we begin is that if your sky is completely blown-out, meaning that it is overexposed to the point where it has become pure white and there is no useable image information, this technique won't work. In fact, no technique will work. Photoshop may be extremely powerful, but it can't create something out of nothing. If that's the case with your photo, you'll need to replace the sky completely. We'll look at how to do that in another tutorial.

Step 1: Add A New Blank Layer

With my photo newly opened in Photoshop, I can see in my Layers palette that I currently have one layer, the Background layer, which contains my image:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: The Layers palette in Photoshop showing the original image on the Background layer.

I need to add a new blank layer above the Background layer, and the easiest way to do that is by simply clicking on the New Layericon at the bottom of the Layers palette:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: Clicking on the "New Layer" icon at the bottom of the Layers palette.

This adds a new blank layer, which Photoshop automatically names "Layer 1", above the Background layer:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: A new blank layer appears above the Background layer.

Step 2: Reset Your Foreground And Background Colors

You may not need to do this step, but just to keep us both on the same page, press the letter D on your keyboard to reset your Foreground and Background colors. This sets your Foreground color to black and your Background color to white, which we can see if we look at the two color swatches near the bottom of the Tools palette. The swatch in the top left shows the current Foreground color, while the swatch in the bottom right shows the current Background color:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: The Tools palette in Photoshop showing the current Foreground and Background colors.

Step 3: Select The Gradient Tool

Grab the Gradient Tool from the Tools palette, or press G on your keyboard to quickly select it:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: Selecting the Gradient Tool from the Tools palette.

Step 4: Select The Foreground to Transparent Gradient

With the Gradient Tool selected and black as our current Foreground color, Right-click (Win) / Control-click (Mac) anywhere inside the document window and select the Foreground to Transparent gradient from the Gradient Picker that appears. It's the second gradient from the left, top row. Click on it to select it:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: Select the "Foreground to Transparent" gradient from the Gradient Picker.

Click anywhere inside the photo to exit out of the Gradient Picker when you're done.



Step 5: Drag Out A Gradient Inside The Photo

With the Foreground to Transparent gradient selected, we're going to create our own version of a neutral density filter by simply dragging out a black-to-transparent gradient inside the photo. Make sure you have "Layer 1" selected in the Layers palette, then click somewhere in the sky portion of the photo and drag straight down until you're below the sky. Hold down your Shift key as you drag if you want to make sure you're dragging straight down and not on an angle. The area between where you started dragging and where you stopped dragging will become the visible transition area between the darker areas at the top of the photo and the lighter areas on the bottom. I want a fairly narrow transition area, so I'm going to click just above the trees to begin my gradient and then drag a short ways down until I'm just below the trees:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: Drag a black-to-transparent gradient from the sky to the ground.

If you want a larger transition area with your image, simply drag the gradient across a larger area. A common practice is to start the gradient at the very top of the image and then drag down to the horizon line. This leaves the darkest area of sky at the top of the photo and gradually lightens it towards the horizon, a very nice effect.

When I release my mouse button, Photoshop draws the gradient, filling most of my sky with black and then quickly fading it away as it crosses the trees (my transition area):

Adobe Photoshop photo editing tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: The black to transparent gradient is now added to the image.

The sky is definitely darker now than it was before. Of course, it also looks quite horrible at the moment, but we're not done yet! Hold your horses! (Sorry, I had to say that at some point).

Step 6: Change The Blend Mode Of "Layer 1" To "Overlay"

With "Layer 1" still selected, go up to the Blend Mode option in the top left corner of the Layers palette (where it currently says "Normal"). Click on the small, down-pointing arrow to the right of the word "Normal" and select Overlay from the list:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: Change the blend mode of "Layer 1" to "Overlay".

With the gradient set to the Overlay blend mode, the black area from the gradient blends in with the photo in a way that makes a huge improvement to the sky. The contrast has been increased, we've brought out all the details in the clouds, and the sky is now a deeper, richer blue:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: The sky has now been enhanced after changing the blend mode of the gradient layer to "Overlay".

The sky now looks a whole lot better, but by solving one problem, we've created another. The gradient I dragged out covered not only the sky but also part of the horses, and now they look like they've been roasting in the sun too long. I need to prevent the gradient from affecting the horses, and I can do that easily using a layer mask.

Step 7: Add A Layer Mask To "Layer 1"

To add a layer mask, again make sure you still have "Layer 1" selected, then click on the Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the Layers palette:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: Clicking on the Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the Layers palette.

This adds a layer mask to the gradient layer. Nothing seems to have happened in the document window, but if we look at the Layers palette, we can see that a layer mask thumbnail has been added to "Layer 1":

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: The Layers palette in Photoshop now showing a layer mask thumbnail on "Layer 1".

Step 8: Select The Brush Tool

We're going to hide the effects of the gradient by painting with black on the layer mask over the areas we want to protect. First, we need the Brush Tool, so either grab it from the Tools palette or press B on your keyboard:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: Selecting the Brush Tool from the Tools palette.

Step 9: Set Your Foreground Color To Black

Since we want to paint with black, we need to set our Foreground color to black. By default when you have a layer mask selected (which we currently do), Photoshop sets your Foreground color to white and your Background color to black. All we need to do here is swap them, and we can do that by pressing the letter X on the keyboard. If we look at the Foreground and Background color swatches again in the Tools palette, we can see that black is now our Foreground color:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: The Tools palette showing black as our current Foreground color.

Step 10: Paint Over The Areas You Want To Protect

With the Brush Tool selected and black as our Foreground color, all we need to do now is paint over the areas that we want to protect from the effects of the gradient. In my case, I want to paint over the horses. You'll most likely need to change the size of your brush, and you can do that by pressing the left and right bracket keys on the keyboard (located to the right of the letter P). The left bracket key makes the brush smaller, and the right bracket key makes the brush larger. You'll probably want to use a soft-edge brush, and you can control the hardness of the brush by holding down the Shift key and pressing the left and right bracket keys. Holding Shift and pressing the left bracket key makes the brush softer. Holding Shift and pressing the right bracket key makes the brush harder.

Simply paint over any areas where you need to hide the effects of the gradient. Here, I'm painting over the backs of the horses. Since I'm painting on the layer mask, not on the photo itself, the black color of the brush is not visible. Instead, we see the effects of the gradient being hidden from view:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image

Photoshop Tutorials: Painting with black on the layer mask hides the effects of the gradient.

If you make a mistake and accidentally paint over an area you didn't mean to, just press X on your keyboard to swap your Foreground and Background colors again so white becomes your Foreground color. Paint over the mistake with white to bring back the effects of the gradient, then press X again to set your Foreground color back to black and continue painting.

I'm going to finish painting over the areas that I want to protect from the gradient. As I mentioned a moment ago, since we're painting on the layer mask rather than on the image itself, we can't see the color we're painting with, but if we look at the layer mask thumbnail in the Layers palette, we can see all the areas where we've painted with black:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image
Photoshop Tutorials: The layer mask thumbnail in the Layers palette showing the areas where we've painted with black.

And here, after painting away the effects of the gradient over the horses, bringing back their original color and brightness, is my final "enhanced sky" result:

Adobe Photoshop photo editing and photo retouching tutorial image
Photoshop Tutorials: The final "enhanced sky" result.

And there we have it!

Panorama using Photomerge

Interesting article on how to create a panorama picture using photoshop's photomerge


This post on Creating a Panorama with Photoshop and Photomerge has been submitted by Matt Dawdy from www.TheRightPic.com.

Panorama

A panorama is simply a wide-angled view of a physical space. To the photographer a panorama is usually several photographs that are stitched together horizontally to create a seamless picture.

This is going to be a pretty simple tutorial in which we create a panorama using Photoshop’s Photomerge utility.

Here are the tools I am going to use to create panoramic photos:

1. A digital camera
2. A tripod or a stable surface or platform to take pictures from that allows some horizontal rotation
3. A computer and Adobe Photoshop and the Photomerge utility

When I started thinking about this tutorial I began to wonder what I should shoot. Just about any subject can be used for a panorama, however traditional panoramic photography subjects are typically landscapes or city skylines. I will show you a few different panoramas that I created, some typical, some a little different than what you would normally see for a panorama.


Setting up for your shoot:

A stable position to take your panoramas from is important. Isn’t it always when taking pictures? Well, with panoramas it is more important because the Photoshop process that joins your photos together is good at what it does but it is not perfect and when it has trouble putting the individual pictures together it either leaves ragged white lines in between the photos or chops large sections out of the photos because it doesn’t know what to do with them.

I would recommend you use a tripod since it allows you to turn your camera slightly in order to take successive shots. If you can’t use a tripod some sort of flat surface like the top of a wall, fence or a board may work as long as it is possible to take a picture and then rotate your camera slightly and then take another picture without vertical movement.

Once you find your potential spot and set your camera up, rotate it to the extreme right and left edges that you want to include in your photo and make sure that there isn’t anything that is too big of a visual or physical obstruction. Something else to keep in mind is to try to set up so that the full range of your shot does not show shadows from you or your camera.

The actual shoot:

For the panoramic pictures I take I start at the extreme left of what I want to capture, set my timer and take bracketed exposure shots. I then stop and check the photos without moving the camera. If one of them looks OK I am ready to continue. If not, I adjust my settings and shoot again from the same spot.

When you have the settings you want and have taken your extreme left pictures it is time to grab a reference point in the viewfinder about 20%-30% away from the right side of your viewfinder. You do this because you are going to swivel the camera so that this reference point is at the far left but still in the viewfinder so that there is some overlap between your photos.

Panorama-2

The green arrows show my chosen reference point, which is a point that I will use to make sure I don’t swivel too far to the right and leave a gap in between my two pictures. The dotted line represents the overlap that I am going to have between this and my next picture. The second picture is shown diagonally lower than the other one for display purposes only.

As far as overlap is concerned, you are shooting digitally so snap away, overlap 30-50% if you want, but err on the side of overlapping too much. If you don’t overlap enough, as Photoshop’s Photomerge app attempts to blend the shots it will not have enough of a fingerprint to blend well and your panorama will end up with the ragged white lines that I wrote about earlier or look like Frankenstein’s version of a panorama.

Once you mentally choose a reference point such as a tree or prominent peak swivel the camera to the right until your reference point is almost at the left edge of the viewfinder. Try not to move the camera position, vertical pitch or height. Once you have swiveled far enough repeat the process that you did to take the first picture.

Now simply repeat this process until you come to the extreme right end of your desired panoramic shot:

1. Choose a reference point about 20-30% away from the right edge of the viewfinder
2. Swivel the camera to the right until your reference point is at the left edge of the viewfinder
3. Take the picture
4. Repeat until you have taken photos that cover the entire area you wish to capture in your panorama

Make your panorama:

Now you are ready to ’stitch’ your photos together.

1. Open each photo that you wish to add to the panorama in Photoshop. Open them sequentially, starting with the leftmost one first.
2. In Photoshop CS3 (or CS2, not sure about other versions) go to File > Automate > Photomerge
3. In the dialog that appears choose Auto and then click the “Add Open Files” button
4. Check the filename numbers of the photos that are added, assuming you allow your camera to number your photos. If you started off shooting from the left of the panorama the lower numbers should be at the top. In other words, it should read something like this:

Panorama-3

If the filenames are out of order remove all of the ones that are before the one that should be first. Now just click Add Open Files again and it will add the pictures back in. Keep removing files and adding them back until you have your files in order.

Click OK. Now Photoshop goes into action. It analyzes and blends the photos. This could take several minutes. Once it is finished you will see what Photoshop and Photomerge could make out of your photos.

Panorama-4

Here is my neighbor’s fish tank. A lot of it got lost in the Photomerge process, in fact I would guess that I lost about 50% of my picture material which is probably due to the fact that the images are dark and very similar and Photomerge probably had a difficult time piecing it together. Still, the picture isn’t a total loss. One thing that did happen that is common with Photomerged pictures is that it is on a slight tilt to the left.

If this happens to you, first flatten your image and then do an Arbitrary rotation until the picture looks level.

Next, crop the picture. If you are unfamiliar with how to do this just press C. Click and drag a box over the area of the picture you want to keep. Press ENTER and the rest of the photo will be gone.

Next, you might want to adjust your saturation, exposure, hue levels, etc, until you are happy with the photo. Make sure you zoom in all of the way to 100% and look the photo over, zoom back out and move around. Look for obvious problems with the picture.

As for me, I have a fishtank with a couple of blurry fish but a decent looking photo that ends up being 88″ wide by 23″ long, give or take a little.

When you are done playing with the coloring and exposure do a Smart Sharpen by going to Filter > Sharpen > Smart Sharpen. I would set the Amount to 60% and set the Radius to 1.0. Click OK.

Go ahead and save your picture and you have a panorama! Here is mine with the default Photoshop frame action added (the photo has been shortened and saved at a low res to make it more web palatable) (click to enlarge the following image):

Panorama-5

Given time I would add a couple of good looking fish from other photos and clean up some of the rough spots, but this is a good start.

Here are a couple of other panoramas that I took (click to enlarge):

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A field near where I work. The actual panorama is 204″ x 24″.

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Here are some homes and a range of mountains with the waste from a giant copper mine. Actual panorama is 94″ x 23″



Read more: http://www.digital-photography-school.com/creating-a-panorama-with-photoshop-and-photomerge#ixzz13ZqSy1ub