Friday, April 13, 2012

Here's a cool trick i learned from my good friend Pete, the most creative camera user i have ever met!



DIY - Create Your Own Bokeh

create your own BokehBokeh is an adaptation from a a Japanese word meaning blur. In photography this term is used to describe the quality of the areas in the picture which are not in focus.

When referring to Bokeh, we can distinguish some of it characteristics:

- Is the light/dark gradient smooth or sharp?

- What shape will a small dot of light take what it is in the Bokeh area? (mirror lenses for example, create a bagel like Bokeh)

We can play with those two variants to create a special Bokeh.

You will need :

1. Cut and shape the sheet to make a fake lens hood. The Diameter is made so that it snugly fits on the lens.

DIY Bokeh 01

2. In the middle of the filter the wanted bokeh shape is cut out - in out example a heart is used. I’m not sure how big a hole the shape can be. But you can check it right away by just looking through the viewfinder. On the 50mm lens @ F1.8 a 15mm heart gives a metering value equal to F3.2, so it can probably be a little bigger (you can use a puncheror cut it by hand).

3. Set your camera to its lowest aperture value (completely open).

Here are two shots to demonstrate this technique - one with a bare lens and the other with the hearted hood. see more shots here and here (I leave it as an exercise to tell which is which :)

heart bokehregular bokeh

Here are the parameters for the example shown above:

  • Lens - Canon 50mm F1.8
  • "Lens hood" Diameter: 70mm (2.75 inch)
  • Hole diameter: 15mm (0.6inch)

Here are two more great examples for this technique from RottieLover (note - there only one "real" heart in each picture):

heart shape Bokeh 01

heart shape Bokeh 02

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Merge Two Images for a Custom Collage - Pretty Cool Trick!



Photoshop How-To: Merge Two Images for a Custom Collage

Few projects have the budget for custom photography. Yet if you use too much stock photography, you may look like everyone else. The solution: Combine photos into something unique using Photoshop.
Written by Jennifer Wills on July 24, 2011

Related Reading

Few projects have the budget for a lot of custom photography. Yet if you use too much stock photography, you risk looking like everyone else. The answer is to merge two or more images into something unique, and the best tool for that is Adobe's Photoshop.

In the following tutorial, I'll show you how to composite individual photographs into a new image. To follow along, merge your own images or download the photos below by clicking on them.

Here are the images to collage together:


"clouds_jwillsphoto" by Jennifer Wills is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License.


"frame_jwillsphoto" by Jennifer Wills is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License.


"plane_jwillsphoto" by Jennifer Wills is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License.

The end result will look like this:

Step 1.
In Photoshop, open the file clouds.jpg or whatever you want as your background image. Then open the other images you'll composite, select the Move tool (shortcut key: V), and click-and-drag them on top of the background photo (or select each image and copy and paste). To help you keep track of what's what, name the layers by double-clicking on each one in the Layers panel and typing in a new name.

Step 2.
Add a layer mask to the plane layer by clicking on its name in the layer panel, then clicking the Add Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the Layers Panel.

Make sure the mask is selected by clicking on it. You can confirm it's selected by looking at the name of the file, which should say "plane, Layer Mask/8".

Make black your foreground color. A good shortcut for this is to hit the "D" key which sets the default foreground (white) and background (black) colors. Then hit the "X" key to swap those colors so black is in the foreground.

Now select the Brush tool (shortcut key: B) and choose a large brush with some hardness. I used a 100-pixel round brush with 85% hardness.

Step 3.
Begin painting out the background of the plane. It will disappear as you paint because, on a layer mask, wherever you paint in black disappears. Wherever you paint in white becomes visible. The old Photoshop adage is, "White reveals, black conceals".

As you get close to the plane, zoom in and reduce your brush size for greater precision. If you overpaint an area, don't worry—nothing has been destroyed. You can restore the detail by hitting the X key to swap to a white brush and painting back in anything you inadvertently made invisible.

For masking a straight line, such as the edge of a wing, click once on an edge of the wing, release, move your brush cursor to the end of the wing, and click again while holding down the Shift key. You've now created a straight line between those two points.

Step 4.
Turn off the visibility of the plane layer and select the frame layer by clicking on it in the Layers panel. Choose the Magic Wand tool (W) and in the Options bar, set the tolerance to 30 and uncheck the Contiguous box. Click the gray background outside of the frame. Now click the Add Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the Layers panel, and this is what you'll see:

Hit Command/Control-I to invert the layer mask, and you should see the cloud background through the frame.

Step 5.
Finally, let's make the plane look as though it is flying through the frame. Turn on the plane layer's visibility and select its mask. (Remember, you have to click on the mask thumbnail, not the plane thumbnail.)

Choose a brush and paint with black on the areas where you want the plane to appear as if it's behind the frame. I painted back the wing on the left and a bit of the tail. The final image should look something like this:

Note: An article with this same title but completely different content appeared on CreativePro.com in 2006. That article was written by Colin Smith.

Sunday, April 8, 2012

Ryan Reynold's Workout and Diet

Ryan Reynolds Workout & Diet

The question has come up a lot, so I'm gonna give you the detailed version. The first time I lifted a barbell for BLADE was the end of July, 2003. I had to be ready to go by mid December, however when we shot the scenes in question it was January, 2004, so, basically, 5 months.

DIET: I ate something pretty much every 2-3 hours, never "stuffing" myself, but never letting myself get hungry. Tons of water throughout the day... BREAKFAST: 1/2 cup egg whites and 2 eggs. Oatmeal - no sugar, a *protein bar 2-3 hours later. (the best oatmeal is this stuff called McCann's Steel Cut Oatmeal. It takes about a half hour to cook, but you just make enough to last a couple weeks. add apple sauce and cinnamon to improve the taste.)

LUNCH: chicken and veggies/brown rice. a *protein bar 2-3 hours later.

DINNER: fish or chicken with salad and vegetables. balsamic vinegar for dressing. couple more ** Optimum Whey Protein Shakes throughout the night and right before bed.